Author – Andy Woodruff – June 2025

While most South African tourists make a beeline for Zimbabwe’s greatest hits – Matopos, Victoria Falls, Hwange – they’re missing out on Zimbabwe’s best-kept secret: the utterly captivating eastern region. Think of it as the country’s hidden treasure chest, packed with the wild beauty of Gonarezhou National Park and the lush, mountainous delights of the Eastern Highlands, including my favourite spot – Chimanimani, but also Bvumba, Mutare, the Honde Valley, and Nyanga.

South Gonarezhou: Where Elephants Rule the Roads

We kicked off our adventure with two blissful days at Bosman Community Camp in southern Gonarezhou. We entered Malipati Gate instead of the main Mabalauta gate.

Note: if you were coming from Beitbridge you take the A4 to Harare via Mazvingo. After 90 mins / 122 KM turn right at Mwenezi onto graded road towards Matibis (80mins/70kms) and onwards for another 50 mins/36ms to Mabalauta.

Within minutes, we saw our first magic moment – elephants casually munching on the banks by the low bridge on Mwenezi River at Makonde, and African Fish Eagles overseeing all.

Bosman Community Camp turned out to be our kind of luxury – a spacious tent with a separate kitchen loaded with everything you could want (including large freezers), solar lighting, and a fire pit with river views that made evening sundowners mandatory. After a very cold beer, we slept like babies and woke up fashionably late. You could say Bosmans is a relaxing place.

Navigation, or lack of

Armed with the Parks map, we set off on afternoon game drives. Fair warning: while all junctions are numbered on the map, the actual signposts have either been swallowed by grass or kicked over by elephants. The further inland we ventured, the more creative our navigation became.

We managed with both the new and old parks maps, using kilometer markers between waypoints like breadcrumbs. But honestly? Get yourself a proper GPS app like Gaia GPS – we discovered it later and it worked well, even in the middle of nowhere with most tracks already mapped.

The wildlife didn’t disappoint – we spotted Lions, Impala herds, Bushbuck, Elephants, Eland (or possibly Nyala), one magnificently solitary Giraffe, Hippos, Warthogs, two types of Zebra, Kudu, Wildebeest. As well as many different types of Sunbird, Hoopoe and a Kori Bustard.

Heading North

The fastest route to the north of the park runs outside the park via Boli and Machendu to Chipinda Pools, but where’s the fun in that? We chose the scenic centre route, which turned out to be gorgeously green (end of rainy season) but frustratingly dense for game viewing. Our highlight was a David Attenborough moment when a large Kori Bustard slowly took off as we approached – we actually drove under it with about a meter to spare!

The drive was mostly peaceful, though we did play detective at several junctions, occasionally backtracking when our navigation skills proved… creative. The closer we got to the north, the better the roads became. The only other vehicle we encountered all day was a Parks Land Cruiser halfway across the Runde River crossing near Chipinda Pools. Naturally, we assumed this meant “all clear” and followed suit. Our vehicle handled it beautifully, though I’ll admit one moment felt a bit deep. Only later did we learn the crossing was officially off-limits. Oops!

Northern Comforts: more working Hot Showers

We split our northern stay between Chipinda Pools and Chipale Camp. Chipinda has clearly been upgraded since my last visit – the freezers, lights, and showers all actually work now.

But Chipale Camp was the best. This tented accommodation is eco-luxury done right: solar lighting, proper bathroom facilities, self-catering setup with working freezers, firm comfortable mattresses, and beautifully soft linen.

It’s the kind of place that makes you wish more accommodation was designed, built and presented this thoughtfully.

The Lion King Moment

Our best big-five encounter happened right at the turning to Chipale Camp – nine lions sprawled across the road like they owned the place (they sort of do). They gave us a cursory glance before settling back down for another ten-minute power nap, just 400 meters from our tent. We visited in mid-to-late April, but if you’re serious about game viewing, October might be your best bet.

Getting there: Fuel and Other Essentials

Diesel. If you need fuel, you’ve got options. In the south, you can get diesel at Makonde, but you’ll need to buy it first at Mabalauta Reception (about 20km away – bit of a system they’ve got going). In the north, Chipinda Pools offers the same arrangement, but thankfully the fuel is only a kilometer or two away.
Food and Drink – bring everything you need.
Booking your stay – reservations@gonarezhou.org – https://gonarezhou.org/
How Much – We paid $612 for two people for four nights – $75 pppn. Not bad at all.

The Road to Chimanimani: Coffee and Colonial Charm

After exiting at Chipinda Pools, we drove 40/50kms to reach the A10, we diverted off-route by 10kms and went left to Chiredzi to get: diesel (the best price we found in Zimbabwe), a proper coffee and maybe an omelette.

Enter Clevers Hotel – a beautifully maintained colonial relic that’s been perfectly preserved in aspic. They couldn’t deliver the americano of our dreams but served up instant coffee with such ceremony that we almost felt sophisticated. We ordered “egg-scotch” and chips, which turned out to be absolutely delicious – warm, fresh, and perfectly prepared. The only catch? It took an hour and ten minutes to arrive. We were in a bit of a hurry, but even so Clevers is definitely worth the visit for the sheer charm of it all.

It take about 4-5 hours from Chipinda Pools to Chimanimani. The route is straightforward from Chipinda Pools. Turn right when you arrive at the A10 and stay on as it skirts around Birchenough Bridge towards and past Chipinge, climbing through avocado, macadamia and forestry plantations until you arrive at the locally known Skyline Junction. Here you turn right and for 10 kms wind down some luxuriant bends until coming to Charter Timber (the always burning smoke stack is the clue) and then another 10kms to Chimanimani – where we welcome you to come and stay with us.

As for Chimanimani, there is a wealth of information on our website Heaven Lodge, on Chimanimani.com and the CTA (Chimanimani Tourist Association) Facebook page. We encourage you to email us at enquiries@heavenlodge.com or whatsapp Emmanuel on +263 77 586 1228

Here are some Chimanimani highlights ….

Bridal Veil Falls – just 3kms from the village.You’ll need a ticket from the National ParksOffice before you go.	Birdwatching, Flora and Fauna – there areover 230 bird species in the Chimani’s.Heaven Lodge wakes up to a raucous dawnchorus of birdsong. We know the best guides.
Tessa Pools– T essa Pools is harder to get to,but is free – just outside the national parkclose to Outward Bound. Great for swimmingand larking about.	Local Culture Walks – knowledgeable localguides will show you through the nearby ruralareas, the local township, where the locals eat,and tell stories about the area.
Pork Pie Hill faces the lodge. It’s a strenuoustwo hour walk to the top or 45 minute drive in a4WD. The views extend beyond Mozambiqueto the Indian Ocean.	The Cashel Route – stupendous views of themountain range. It’s a long tough drive thatneeds a 4WD vehicle and could take threehours.
Hiking in the Mountains– 1-5 day hikes onancient paths through stunning wilderness withviews of the Indian ocean. Inside and outsidethe National Park.	The nautical bar at the Hotel– set out as thecabin of an ocean sail ship from times past. Inthis land bound country. They have ice!!
Hot Springs– these natural hot springs areknown for their warm, mineral-rich waters. Thisplace is not what it used to be but the watersare the same.	The Corner– drive and camp and walk. Just21kms along the Cashel Scenic View.Easywalks, a swimming waterfall with 15 minutes ofwhere you park.

After Chimanimani we spent time travelling north. You can read about the rest of the trip here – click here etc

Part 3 – The Eastern Highlands: Mutare, Bvumba, Honde Valley and Nyanga

After 10 days of mixing relaxation with hard driving around the Chimanimani district (which we will write about in a separate article) it was time to head north from the Chimanimani Mountains in the south to the centrally located Bvumba Mountains and onwards to Nyanga further north, which includes the scenic Honde Valley.

Mutare

Our first stop was Mutare and a fulsome breakfast including a large mug of fresh filtered coffee in the garden at Zimbos Cafe, (located on 29 First Street by the Greek Orthodox Church). https://www.facebook.com/zimboscafe/. It’s not the only place in town but it is the one I know best. You might also consider the Mutare Club built in 1897 as the Stock exchange which is the colonial building at the top of Herbert Chitepo. Nearby is Karen’s Kitchen, also worth a visit.

Mutare’s name reflects its history as a mining town with iron and gold deposits. These days it is a busy and hectic place that shares national characteristics with a large informal sector. Cash is king . The supermarkets are at the top end of town close enough to each other that you can pick and choose. If you are after car parts you might try First and Second streets and ask from there.

If you park on or anywhere near the main street (Herbert Chitepo) it’s $1 an hour. The parking attendants will find you quickly enough. Sometimes, if you’re nearby, parked down a side street (especially by Spar and Nandos) you may also get hassled by kids wanting a dollar to keep an eye on your car. It is annoying, especially as they usually look like they could do with a dollar.

The Mutare Museum is worth a visit for local history and cultural insights into the region and especially for the eclectic vehicle collection which is a significant highlight for me. It’s on Aerodrome road, so turn left near the top of Herbert Chitepo (main street).

Currency Note: The US dollar is widely accepted in Zimbabwe, as is the South African Rand. Some supermarkets price in ZIG (Zimbabwe Investment Gold), predominantly an online currency, but they will convert to US dollars at the till. At the time of writing, the official ZIG rate aligns well with the US dollar. However, if rates fluctuate, using a local’s ZIG card might offer a better exchange (they will approach you). Whatever you do make sure you bring in small denomination notes: $1s, $5s and $10s. If your change is less than a dollar you are likely to get your change in boiled sweets!

Bvumba – Mountains of the Mist

The Bvumba Mountains start 20 minutes to the south and east from Mutare. While a day trip is possible, an overnight stay allows for a more relaxed exploration of its many sights.

Our first stop was early on at the Prince of Wales Viewpoint which has big views over Mutare and the Forbes border crossing point into Mozambique.

There is plenty of space to park here.

But the place I was most looking forward to was Tony’s Coffee Shop, which has a legendary status for its tea, coffee and cake. As we discovered, it doesn’t open on Mondays and Tuesdays. So we don’t know if it is as good as its legendary status, you decide. https://www.facebook.com/tonyscoffeeshop

Tony’s loss was the Leopard Rock Hotel and Casino’s gain. The guard at the gate welcomed us with an amusing walk and salute. We were out of season so the hotel was very quiet. A game of golf had appeal but we didn’t fancy walking in the cold and drizzle and so we settled for coffee and brownies inside by a small fire. Old fashioned luxury. A great choice.

We’d done some hiking in Chimanimani so didn’t feel the need to do more. However, it is worth knowing there are many opportunities in the Bvumba so we created this link that gives a google low-down on the routes – click it! Make sure you check the weather before you go as it can get cold. If you’re hiking then you will probably be keen on birds. All of the eastern highland is excellent for Birdwatching – Bvumba is one of the most accessible places.

We can recommend Vumba Botanical Gardens to combine a stroll with bird watching. These landscaped gardens feature a vast collection of indigenous and exotic plants, including a significant cycad collection. The gardens include small streams and serene lakes that make for a wonderful birding experience.

If you’re looking for accommodation then we’d like to give a shout out to Seldom Seen which fairly describes itself as a bird watching paradise in the Bvumba. Sunrise was incredible, as the sun came up the birds came visiting.These little moments make a place.

The Honde Valley Tea Estates

The drive from Mutare to Aberfoyle Lodge at the end of the Honde Valley rewards you every kilometre of the way. The view around each corner is different but always fabulous, lush and vibrantly green. Sometimes it feels like you have stepped back in time going gently around donkey and cart, or tractors from the 60’s. Occasionally a city car sped by, seemingly oblivious to the glory around them. I think I would have enjoyed being on the donkey and cart.

We didn’t have an agenda for this part of our trip other than to drive and explore to see what was there. We ended up driving to Aberfoyle Lodge which was pretty much at the end of the road. One stretch was both a photographic feast and familiar. It was a long sweeping stretch or red track with tea plantations spread over the hills like green velvet. It was interspersed with acacia trees.

It was where Clarkson and the Grand Tour chaps started their very last programme. When I rewatched it again I realised they used the same stretch of road from different angles at least five times. It was very pretty, but overall I think they failed to show the best of what they would have seen in the Honde Valley

We stopped at https://aberfoylelodge.com for a cup of tea only. Next time we’ll come for a few days, play some golf, have a swim and enjoy poolside service and maybe, after a day of walking … a foot massage. It is beautifully located, immaculately presented and not expensive from what I remember (if you get an inclusive deal).

Art at Aberfoyle Lodge

That night we stayed at Pagotwe Lodge at Hauna Growth Point. Edwin at Aberfoyle laughed when we told him this. He said “that is where I am from. Where are you staying?” However, Edwin doesn’t know everything. It was OK, the room was on the small side but it worked and was safe. We didn’t check out the nightlife of Honde Growth Point.

Nyanga around Troutbeck and World’s View

Our final two days were spent at a friend’s private lodge near Nyanga. Our first stop was the nearby Troutbeck Inn for coffee and scones on the grass bank overlooking the man made lake. Troutbeck has a fire in the reception lobby that has remained lit since 1st March 1951. The staff admitted they would be fired if it went out. The other reason for coming here is to do some Trout fishing.

Talking of scones, we much preferred the scones just 20 minutes up the road at Nyamora Dairy. They also serve the necessary fresh filtered coffee, milkshakes, brownies, apple pie, milk tart muffin, as well as club sandwiches, chicken and chips, smashed avocado (oh yes) and samosas. We went back for breakfast the next day.

The cream was fresh

Nyamora Dairy is not well sign-posted. It is 20 minutes north from Troutbeck, after a dam on the left and then left at a big junction. Trust your instincts. After a kilometre or so you’ll turn left at another junction where you will see a sign for the dairy.

B.U.M.P.Y

(Bone-jarring, Undulating, Marred, Potholed, Yawning)

After a few days of cruising on mainly well maintained tar roads we were keen to get into 4WD mode and headed for the nearby Gairezi river. To get there turn right on Church Road, about 500m after Troutbeck Resort. On Google maps Church Road seems to peter out, but it is there.

It was a tough drive, but it was accessible after an hour of patient driving. We were specifically aiming for Gairezi Ecotourism Cottages. I’ve later read that the Gairezi river is famous for fly-fishing. We didn’t see any of that. After checking in and paying our fees, we continued, crossed a small bridge and went up, over and back down to the cottages on the other side of the river where we found a quiet spot, parked off, made ourselves a cup of tea and then dozed off. There are many delightful spots like this. Unless you have a 4×4 forget about coming here. It would be too tough.

Our final visit was to World’s View. It is well signposted. I’ve seen a lot of very nice sunsets over the years and this one joins them. What is unusual is the nature of the vista. The vantage points are from up on high. In front the cliffs drop dramatically and far to the valley floor where you can see everything in front of you for maybe 10-15 kilometres before hills and mountains rise again and occupy the skyline.

This photo doesn’t show that very well but it does give you a sense of why it’s worth the effort.

We didn’t see the now world famous Mutarazi Falls Skywalk and Skyline. We’re too old.And then it was onwards to Harare. Another story, another day. Our trip was done.